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Cyclepedia manuals are extremely thorough service and repair manuals covering all components of your Suzuki DR in a focused and logical manner. We have seen a lot of service and repair manuals since and we really like the Cyclepedia DIY motorcycle line.
Very well put together and very informational worth every penny. Was this rating helpful to you? John verified customer July 26, It is laid out in an easy to follow fashion, and gives detailed values for certain tools needed and torque specifications.
Nick verified customer October 21, The pictures and instructions are great. Click here to review this product Reviews are subject to approval. About Us.In large gear reducers, parts — such as bearings and gears — can be pricey.
DR650 Engine / Transmission Rebuild
Understanding gearbox failures can help mitigate downtime. Gear reducers can be complex machines that apply the science of gearing and mechanical advantage to run thousands of complex operations in many different industries.
Gearbox manufacturers have designed a variety of gearboxes in multitudes of different configurations and gear ratios. When failures happen it is critical to understand how to repair the failed units and how to prevent future failures in order to keep production up and running. Three things that can cause premature failure are poor lubrication, misalignment and overloading. Failure modes can involve bearing failures or gear failures, or both. Lubrication is critical for both bearing and gear life.
Important aspects of lubrication are the volume of lubricant that is delivered to each gear mesh and bearings, as well as the properties of the lubricant. The lubricant forms a thin film that prevents metal-to-metal contact between gears and between bearing components. Modern industrial gears use an involute tooth form and tooth engagement, which is a combination of rolling and sliding. The oil film is a thin barrier between moving parts that allows the rotating force to turn the gears easily without damage to the metal surfaces.
Contamination in the lubricant can result in scuffing and much faster wear for both the bearings and the gearing in a gearbox, so it is imperative that maintenance mechanics check gearbox lubricant for contamination periodically, once for year as a minimum. Each gearbox would have a recommended oil level as well as a method to lubricate both the bearings and the gear set.
With bath lubrication, all moving components dip down below the oil level. With splash lubrication, oil is splashed around inside the gearbox housing by fast moving components, covering all moving parts. With pressure lubrication, oil is pumped to each gear mesh and bearing through spray nozzles or oil passages from the gearbox oil sump or from and external reservoir.
Gears are designed to mesh with either parallel or right angle shafts and with a specific backlash between gear teeth.
The alignment of the gears in the gearbox housing is critical, and assessment of the alignment of the gearbox housing bores is very important when a rebuild is being done.
In mining applications, where gear reducers are in heavily loaded applications, we sometimes see firsthand that reducer housings can get distorted or bent.
Even a small amount of misalignment can cause premature gear wear and failure.Discussion in ' Thumpers ' started by KingNov 18, Log in or Join. Adventure Rider. Wrong oil in my DR???? Joined: Sep 12, Oddometer: I had read in the DR thread that you dont need to run motorcycle specific oil but regular car engine oil would work.
Well I replaced the oil in my 09 DR about a week ago and I have only rode it a couple of blocks since replacing the oil when I read about car engine oils having friction modifiers in them. I went and looked at the engine oil that I used Quaker State 10W and they use friction modifiers in their oil. Is my clutch now ruined? I have only rode it a couple of blocks and didnt notice anything at the time What other oil can I use Please tell me what oils you guys are using in your DR's and WIll i just be able to drain the oil again and put some other oil in?
What about the filter? KneeKickerNov 18, Joined: Jul 26, Oddometer: 2, Location: Indiana. It's trashed just go ahead and start parting it out now in the Flea Market.Suzuki DR650 Overhaul Timelapse
ADV Sponsors. OnedererNov 18, Joined: Aug 24, Oddometer: 1, Location: Somewhere. Repent evil doer, or ye shall suffer the wrath of the oil thread! NJ-BrettNov 18, In other bikes I have had, the car oil did not hurt the clutch any. But air cooled motorcycles with shared clutches and transmissions call for different oil then water cooled car motors do, so I run motorcycle oil.
Most auto parts places stock motorcycle oil, as do bike shops, or you can buy a case on line. You can get cheap dino oil, or expensive synthetic.
I like synthetic in air cooled motors, and you can run it longer to make up for the extra cost. If you clutch does not slip under load, you are ok.
If it does, change the oil out. If it does slip, it will likely be fine if you change out the oil and don't allow excessive clutch slip to burn the plates up. Worst case you need to pull the plates and wash the oil off.
AZ-TwinNov 18, ShadyRascalNov 18, Look on the back of the oil can. There is a circular label with writing on it.Just like changing the oil in your bikes transmission or your pick-up truck, your bikes suspension needs regular fresh oil and wear parts replaced.
If you ever wondered why you need to add more compression and rebound damping to your shock over time its because the piston band and o-rings wear. This allows oil to bypass the piston, that oil is no longer passing through the valving stack; the result: Damping control is lost.
Other items such as guide bushings, o-rings, dust and oil seals will also wear over time; these parts should be replaced to keep your suspension working in optimal condition. As oil breaks down its lubrication properties begin to go away. With a lack of lubrication your suspension components are wearing out. The oil in your suspension begins to break down, the performance you once had is beginning to go away.
Your oil has broken down, parts are wearing.
good stuff about the SUZUKI DR650
The damping control is noticeable changed from fresh suspension. Your oil has broken down, it is no longer providing the necessary lubrication to friction surfaces. Parts are worn; you are now at risk of causing damage to the inside of the shock body, fork cartridge rods etc. We are hiring at our Leesburg, Florida location! Page Menu. Why Rebuild Your Suspension?Sdarot click co il
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2015 Suzuki DR650SE Parts & Accessories
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It's also just a lot of fun. Quickly pull the clutch in and let it out in one fluid motion. You should only need to pull in the clutch a little bit and not all the way to the grip.
This is of course easier with lower gearing, lower tire pressure and bikes with performance upgrades. If you want to go right, turn the front wheel to the left and use the bottom of the front wheel to pull you to the side. Make sure that the overflow tube isn't full of fuel after dumping bike Key OFF hold the decompression lever in hold the throttle wide open to clear the passage kick kickstart several times release decompression lever and throttle Key ON try to start bike as you normally would.
The carburetor overflow tube has a tendency to fill up with fuel if bike is dumped on right side. There is a potential significant problem with some and early DRs prior to vin X These bikes had a solid starter idler gear that can break out of the gear bearing bosses when the engine kicked back during shutdown.
This will break out of the left case half, destroying it. Should this catastrophic event occur, you will have a very costly repair on your hand. If you have a DR that hasn't been updated, you can switch to a torque limiter gear that's designed to slip.Divi mobile menu full width
DRs after vin X went back to the pre design. Please feel free to link to this site so that others can find it. It's easy to link to this site, just copy one of the texts below onto your web page:. Zen's DRDiscussion in ' Thumpers ' started by rchMar 14, Log in or Join.
Adventure Rider.Kivy columns
Removing the clutch allowed me to see the issue. The output shaft bearing is toast. There were small pieces of it in the bottom of the cases. So far, I have not found any other signs of damage. The PO said he shut down the bike soon after hearing the noises, thankfully! I have taken down the engine as far as I can without a rotor removal tool which I ordered from ProCycle. I can't see if there are any issues with gears yet but I thought I'd come here and ask a few questions: 1.
Since I am splitting the cases, should I just replace all the bearings and seals, or only what I need? What do I use to clean the components with, like the clutch plates, to ensure I get rid of all the metallic soaked oil?
Should I use something different for the cases than I do the valve cover? Should I replace all the screws like the ones holding the neutral safety switch with stainless allen bolts? A few of them I will have to replace. Blue loctite?How to make a block generator with command blocks
How far should I take the rebuild since I have the entire motor apart? What should I know that I don't? Where's the best place to buy parts? I will post up some pics in a few and will continue to take them along the way for anyone interested in killing time looking at them!Lautopsia psicologica. lindagine nei casi di morte violenta o
Joined: Nov 19, Oddometer: 6, Location: N. Also how many miles on the engine? I usually use varsol to clean up the cases and parts I never use loctite on case screws but some people do I do use loctite inside on such things as the shift support mechanisms and anything that holds a moving working part in place What do you know? ADV Sponsors.
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